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Kurofunetei, Old-School Yoshoku in Ueno

Kurofunetei might just be the place with the longest line in Ueno on weekends. This time too, I started queuing an hour early and only just got in. That said, you can write your name down and wait somewhere else, so even a long wait is not all that painful.

Omurice, half size

kurofunetei

Even the half size is quite substantial. For a woman it would be plenty for one meal. It had been ages since I last tasted it, but even after all this time, it was as moving as I remembered.

Curry, half size

kurofunetei

Out comes a mellow curry that has been carefully simmered for a long time. The charm of this place is that whatever you order, you know it will be good.

Crab croquette

kurofunetei

A croquette packed full of crab meat, a real winter treat. If you get the chance, I highly recommend trying it.

The side dishes, doubling as toppings, that come with the curry and hayashi rice

kurofunetei

Bouillabaisse, half size

kurofunetei

I had been dying to eat this dish, and at last I got to have it again. It is a bouillabaisse like a mellow cream stew, loaded with fresh seafood. The essence of the seafood melts into the broth for a wonderfully deep, clean flavor, and of all the seafood dishes I have ever eaten, this is the one that left the deepest impression. It is especially tempting in winter, when seafood is at its best.

Hayashi rice, half size

kurofunetei

I also ordered the house specialty, the hayashi rice simmered for 24 hours, and it lived up to its reputation. The slight sweetness is what makes it so appealing.

Rice

kurofunetei

Not just in Ueno but in all of Tokyo, I doubt there are many places that do yoshoku this well. If it is your first trip to Tokyo, I strongly recommend dropping by. It might even change your outlook on life.

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