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French in Nishiazabu: ohara et cie

The highlight of this trip was a restaurant in Nishiazabu, currently the chicest spot in Tokyo. It’s a quiet neighborhood right next to Roppongi, full of hidden gems. I went to one of them, a place called Ohara. It’s fairly well known and gets good reviews. Of course Tokyo is packed with restaurants more popular than this one, but most of them you can’t get into unless you book one or two weeks ahead. Calling around to several places for a reservation, I started to wonder whether Japan was really in a recession.

It’s in a basement in a residential area.

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

I had no idea a place like this existed near flashy Roppongi. It’s near the Nishiazabu intersection, in the back alley behind Gonpachi, the place famous from Kill Bill. The sign is small and it’s right in the middle of a residential area, so it’d be hard to find if you didn’t know where it was.

Champagne

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

They serve champagne under their own label. Restaurants that go through a lot of wine at big events like weddings often do this. From what I heard, it seems to be a popular spot for wedding after-parties too. In a way it’s both the upside and the downside of Japanese weddings: the couple spends a fortune, but if you attend you get to eat really good food. Of course, you have to give a gift of money to match.

Butter

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

Yeah… well… I no longer need to bother rating any butter below Echire level… this is how life gets simpler…

Shrimp consommé with cauliflower, topped with caviar

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

It wasn’t my order so I can’t say how it tasted, but it seemed good. What matters most to me at a fine-dining restaurant isn’t getting delicious food, it’s not getting a failed dish. When I’ve picked the restaurant, I get really nervous that something weird will come out and spoil my companions’ mood. If they turn out something at this level, you can pretty much relax.

Ayu rillettes with a broccoli sauce flavored with tade vinegar

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

It looks plain, but the taste was astonishing. It’s completely different in shape and texture from the ayu you usually eat grilled, yet they brilliantly brought out that complex flavor you only get from freshwater fish living in clear streams. If you’re going to call it Japanese-style French, this is the level it should be at.

Pomerol wine

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

The wine was Chateau La Fleur de Bouard 2007. I looked it up, and apparently it’s made by the producer of Château Angélus, the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. Honestly I didn’t expect much from the wine list, but it was a classic, more elegant Pomerol than I expected.

Soup of the day

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

It was tasty, but it was already a month ago and I’ve been so forgetful lately that I can’t remember the name…

Fish dish of the day

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

I remember it being sea bream. I wouldn’t call the ingredients special, but the cooking was first-rate. The skill would hold its own anywhere, so I could see why this place is so popular these days.

A fish dish, but I can’t really remember what it was -_-;

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

On days when the food is good the conversation flows, so I end up focusing on the people rather than the flavors. The time flew by and the details of what I ate are already gone from my memory. Honestly, those get-togethers probably matter more than the food anyway. I suppose I’d have to focus more on the blog to become a power blogger, but that seems impossible for me.

Granité

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

It’s a sorbet. It comes between the fish and meat courses as a palate cleanser. Of course, even if it’s just a palate cleanser, a place at this level doesn’t serve just anything.

Duck

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

The sauce, the cooking, the ingredients, all delicious. Way better than Pierre Gagnaire at the Lotte Hotel in Seoul.

Roast French pigeon with a light sauce of its jus

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

Since it isn’t gibier it wasn’t a special flavor, but the dish itself was delicious. Come to think of it, gibier season is on its way. I’m really looking forward to it.

Roast lamb

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

A high-quality main, but, well… I’ve been going to Western restaurants so often lately… honestly, most mains don’t really interest me anymore. That’s my own problem, of course.

Finally, dessert. Truth is, I choose restaurants based on dessert. Any place that serves bad desserts or has a weak dessert course is the first to be cut in my selection process. The main is just the warm-up for dessert.

A plate of peach

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

There’s peach inside a peach ice cream, and it’s seriously delicious. Who knew a dessert made just from peaches could taste like this… It’s every bit worthy of a top French restaurant.

Tiramisu, Ohara style

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

The flavor was excellent as expected, but the portion was so big it was hard to finish.

Pineapple compote with coconut ice cream

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

This was my order. It looked pretty, but the taste was just average. Still, for a French dessert, this is not bad.

Petits fours

ohara et cie@nishiazabu

Petits fours to enjoy with tea. Some places just toss them out, but this place was very satisfying. Especially the chocolates.

Nothing especially remarkable came out, but maybe because the chef is so skilled, every dish arrived at a consistent level. The prices were very reasonable and the portions just right. These days I’m growing fond of places like this, where you can enjoy yourself without much formality. I originally picked this place because all the other famous restaurants were fully booked, but it’s in Roppongi so it’s easy to get to, and there are plenty of late-night bars nearby so it’s easy to go on for a second round. It has a lot going for it. A place like this would be perfect for a special occasion with close friends.

Tokyo really has an endless supply of great restaurants. Going in, I thought, how good can it be, but maybe because it has a clear personality and concept of its own, it left me wanting to come back. Next time, though, I think I’ll try somewhere with more spectacular desserts. ^_^

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