I’ve been insanely busy lately. I was always busy, but recently it feels like the busyness has multiplied several times over. After living like this for a few months, it struck me that all I have left in life is work and good food. And yet I felt I’d been neglecting even the good food lately. So I decided to go somewhere properly good for once in a while, and the place I picked was Côte d’Or, a French restaurant with a long history in Shirokane-Takanawa, Tokyo.
The entrance
It’s tucked deep inside the ground floor of an apartment building in a residential area, and the location is so unusual that it’s hard to find even with a map. Even so, it’s hugely popular, to the point that you can’t get a table unless you book two weeks ahead. This time I was lucky and got a seat just three days before, probably because of the long run of holidays.
A light glass of wine
For some reason I’ve been craving white more than red lately. At the same price, the white is usually a bit better quality ^_^ Of course you could order a bottle, but that’s a bit much for lunch. Watching the guy dining alone at the next table order a whole bottle and sip away at it, I briefly thought I shouldn’t grow old like that -_- Also, and this seems to be the house concept, the sommelier and the entire staff are all older gentlemen. Every one of them was kind and the service was flawless, but I found it a little intimidating. Maybe this is also a nod to the female customers..
Starter
The very first dish showed exactly what this place is about. It was a baguette topped with shrimp and cheese, which looked almost like a beer snack. On top of that, bread is also served separately, so a bread-based starter didn’t quite make sense to me. I didn’t expect much from it, but one bite and it all made sense. The rich shrimp aroma filling my nose, the nicely melted cheese with its slightly punchy sweetness, and the crisp bread, all in harmony. Simple, yet perfect. Who knew food like this existed.. From the very first plate it was obvious that this place follows a completely different path from other French restaurants that obsess over presentation. Only then did I understand why they turned down a Michelin rating, with its focus on glamour.
Butter
Unlike at other restaurants, the butter comes with no decoration at all. Which meant I could spread it on my bread without a second thought. When you just want to enjoy a good French meal, there’s no need to tense up. I suppose that’s also why it sits in a quiet residential area that seems to be the locals’ jogging and walking route.
Bread
They told me the bread comes from a bakery called Johan. The shop’s main store is in France, with a branch in Mitsukoshi department store, and it’s famous for its freshly baked bread. I’ve been near that bakery many times, but had no idea it was this good..
Grilled sawara (Spanish mackerel) and vegetables
An unassuming-looking fish dish arrived and I ate it without really thinking, but it delivered a surprising burst of joy in my mouth. My skills fall short, and I don’t know how to describe this flavor. It’s just purely delicious, and not from excess fat or chewiness either; it’s light, with just a hint of sweetness. The vegetables were cooked just right too, and felt completely at one with the fish. If this is what cooking that draws out the flavor of the ingredients means, I’d say it drew out about 120%. According to someone I know, sawara is hard to prepare but naturally a delicious fish, and with my limited experience, how could I have ever eaten proper sawara? I hope someday I get to eat really fresh sawara and compare it with this experience..
Venison with a sweet potato garnish
I’m not especially fond of venison, but it came out nicely cooked medium-rare. It didn’t seem to be wild game, but I didn’t ask.. The slightly sweet garnish was, once again, a surprise, and its balance with the venison, which can easily turn dry, was exquisite. It made me curious about the chef’s cooking philosophy. I should read a book the chef wrote sometime. Once my current project is over, that is..
Grilled suzuki (sea bass)
On the outside it’s an ordinary-looking grilled sea bass, but I have no idea how they cooked it. Their knack for catching the exact moment an ingredient is at its most delicious is remarkable. Maybe because this place is famous in Tokyo for its skill with vegetables, even the simple-looking little cabbage pieces? (Brussels sprouts) were really impressive.
Orange sorbet
This usually comes out as a palate cleanser before dessert. It did the job nicely.
Soufflé
A soufflé packed full of orange. It has none of the heaviness soufflés often have, and it’s fun to scoop the puffed-up soufflé like ice cream. The portion seemed a bit large, but that could hardly be a problem ^_^
Petits fours
They come out very modestly, but the macarons are on par with a specialty shop. The cookies were just so-so..
Herbal tea
I don’t think I’ve ever been disappointed with herbal tea at any restaurant in Tokyo. This place is no exception, of course. Handy, since there’s no need to go to a tea shop..
Strawberry dessert
You can order from the dessert menu separately, so I tried one more. I remember it was called strawberry soup, and unexpectedly the syrup wasn’t heavy at all, just there to bring out the strawberry flavor, so it rounded off the meal on a fresh note.
The lunch course was 5,000 yen, and with drinks and an extra dessert it came to about 7,000 yen per person. I really loved the food here, but maybe because of the low price, the course had only three dishes. -_- I regret not paying a bit more to add some à la carte dishes. Next time I’ll either come for dinner or figure out how to spend a bit more and eat properly.