There’s one place in Kyoto that’s famous for bo-zushi. Bo-zushi is sushi made from fish that spoils easily, cured in vinegar and left to mature before eating. As expected it isn’t cheap, but when I heard it was good, I couldn’t not go.
This is the place..
It’s right across from Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park. It isn’t an imposing building, so it’s easy to walk straight past it. I got there around 10 in the morning; they were open, but I was told you couldn’t eat in the shop yet. So I got takeaway and ate it on the Philosopher’s Path.
Tsubaki sushi
True to its name, camellia sushi, the salmon and rice are shaped beautifully. It tastes as good as it looks. The salmon was lightly brushed with sesame oil. The only catch was the price: 300 yen for just this one piece.
Mackerel bo-zushi
This is the shop’s best-known item.
Here’s what it looks like unwrapped…
It comes pre-cut so it’s easy to eat.
Cross-section of the bo-zushi
It’s packed full. As for the taste… does it even need saying.. The nutty chew of the matured mackerel goes with the rice in perfect balance. You’re supposed to peel off the kelp wrapped around the outside before eating, but I couldn’t be bothered and ate it as is.
Money’s tight, so I don’t know if I’ll drop by again, but I was very satisfied. Kyoto restaurants seem to be like this across the board: the food is good, but it’s never cheap.