This post was written in 2007. Shop details and prices may have changed since then.
I went to Shukaen, the original shop behind Onomichi ramen, which started getting popular nationwide a few years ago. It was the main reason for this trip. Rumor has it that this shop’s ramen isn’t really Onomichi ramen, and that the taste changed a bit after it got popular… But since I’d come all the way to Onomichi, it seemed only polite to pay the original shop a visit, so I went.
The sign.
I waited in line for about 40 minutes to get in. I think that’s the longest I’ve queued since coming to this area ^_^
One serving of gyoza.
Clean-tasting and not greasy. Tasty.
Chuka soba
A classic chuka soba with pork back fat in it. Onomichi ramen normally has a seafood broth in it, but apparently the original shop’s ramen doesn’t. They say the seafood broth was added arbitrarily when the nationwide version of Onomichi ramen was created. Maybe that’s why it just wasn’t good. Without the seafood, the heavy, greasy aftertaste of the pork-fat broth came through untouched… Well, honestly, rather than saying it’s bad, I can get ramen this good just ordering chuka soba at the ramen place near my house. There’s no reason at all to drive 3 hours and line up for 40 minutes for this taste.
Wonton.
Wonton is something like boiled dumplings. The broth is the same as the ramen’s. Maybe because the gyoza was good, the wonton wasn’t bad either. But I can’t call it great, either.
A photo of the sign I took after coming out.
The line had actually gotten longer than when I went in.
The only reason to bother coming to a place like Onomichi is Onomichi ramen, and since even that was so-so, I don’t think I’ll ever go again. Still, it might be worth looking around once… especially if you’re a fan of old Japanese films… I’d originally planned to drop by Onomichi before my Shikoku trip, but I don’t think there’s any need. Now, the places in Japan I haven’t been to yet that seem worth a visit are about Okinawa, Nagoya and Hokkaido. I’ll rest a little and then get back to traveling… Stay tuned…