Hamamatsu is famous for eel farming, and thanks to that it is full of good unagi (freshwater eel) specialists. Tsuruya is one of the better ones.

The explanation

If you have the time, give it a slow read..

Open for business

Unaju (eel over rice in a lacquer box)

I always assumed summer eel had too much of its fat rendered out and turned dry, but at a place that knows what it is doing you get eel with a springy, chewy bite, and it makes me think summer might actually be the better season. That is not something you can get just anywhere either — only near the production area can a shop reliably source good material, which is why it tastes this good.

Unadon (eel over rice in a bowl)

Suimono (clear soup)

A cross-section of the unadon

There is more buried inside.

Charcoal

Not compromising on ingredients is what a place like this has going for it. Even as a neighborhood business, a tradition kept up for decades is the real strength, I think.

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