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Hinataya, Sano Ramen Specialist in Sano

When you think of Sano, the first thing that comes to mind is Sano ramen. It is a case of a regional ramen earning nationwide fame, the way Sanuki, Mizusawa and Inaniwa udon have in the udon world. I hear some ramen fanatics make the trip from far away just to eat it. To take care of the first item on my Sano agenda, I walked about 2 km along a country road through rice fields and arrived at Hinataya, one of the famous Sano ramen shops.

The line before opening

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There is really nothing around here, yet plenty of people were waiting. Probably weekend day-trippers. I got there about 10 minutes before opening, but still ended up waiting around 20 minutes after they opened. Should have hurried a bit more.

The green bamboo on display

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This big green bamboo pole is what made Sano ramen famous nationwide. Kneading the dough with a big green bamboo pole and then hand-cutting the noodles is the hallmark of Sano ramen. That day I only saw it hanging there and did not get to watch the actual kneading.

The kitchen

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The young staff were hard at work getting ready. You could feel the energy.

Chashu-men

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At last it arrived. The hot soy-sauce-based broth is clean, without a single off note. It would be great for a hangover. Inoue in Tsukiji has this style of broth too, but this place is tastier. Worth the long trip.

Ramen

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This one is the version without extra chashu, and even without it the portion was more than generous.

The noodles

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The noodles are springy, with a lively chew like Sanuki udon, and they went surprisingly well with the clean broth. Being hand-cut, the thickness is uneven, but that is part of the charm. When it is this satisfying, it makes sense that a dish as common as ramen became famous enough to carry the town’s name. If you are a ramen fanatic, this is a taste worth going out of your way for.

Gyoza

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Ordering only ramen felt a bit bare, so I got a plate of gyoza too, but the flavour lacked impact. I could have done without it.

Rice fields

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After a moving meal, I stepped outside and took a shot of the scenery in front of the shop. Lovely weather. My next stop, Sano Outlet, was a fair way off, so I called a taxi, and the driver ripped me off a little: the fare came to over 3,000 yen. Whatever he pocketed will end up boosting the local economy anyway, so I did not begrudge it too much, but if I come to Sano again I will probably go to a ramen shop near the outlet rather than a famous one far out of the way.

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