This post was written in 2007. Shop details and prices may have changed since then.
Over the last Chuseok holiday I came to Korea for a visit, for the first time in almost seven months. Someone I’m on friendly terms with seemed glad to see me back in Korea after so long and insisted on treating me to some good meat, so, thinking “Yes! This is my chance,” off we went to Byeokje Galbi at Tower Palace. Come to think of it, I’ve never once paid for my own meal at Byeokje Galbi (-_-v).
I’d originally planned to order the 120,000-won course, but they said the courses weren’t available over Chuseok. So we ordered à la carte. That day it wasn’t the usual “ten-ten” (10% VAT + 10% service charge) – the service charge was 5%, probably because it was Chuseok.
The table setting
As you’d expect from a barbecue place where you sit at proper tables, the setting is neat and tidy.
The basic set
The standard side dishes
Neat and clean all round.
The house salad
First we order two servings of bulgogi at 33,000 won each. That’s three times the price of Bogeonok orz. Even Woo Lae Oak’s bulgogi (25,000), which everyone calls expensive, would whimper at this price. I could never eat it on my own dime, but today I have a generous sponsor, so I order it with a flourish.
The grill
Shiny and spotless.
Two servings of bulgogi
It’s pricey, but it’s the best bulgogi I’ve ever had. Nicely sweet and tender. Most bulgogi is really about the marinade, so the meat is often not great quality, and even when it’s cooked through there are bits that catch when you chew – but this bulgogi had none of that. For a moment the thought crossed my mind that at twice Bogeonok’s price, I might actually pay for it myself now and then.
The bulgogi was so good that I ordered a bowl of rice and mixed it in. And with that, the first half wraps up and we move on to the second half.
To get serious about the meat, they add more charcoal and swap the grill.
Real oak charcoal, of course
Saeng galbi (unmarinated short rib) and saeusal (rib-eye cap). There’s also a slice each of Chinese yam and pine mushroom.
Oh… the marbling is a work of art. I think the saeng galbi was 57,000 won and the saeusal 65,000. It doesn’t have the excessive marble-like marbling of wagyu, but Korean hanwoo has a charm all its own.
Grilling the saeng galbi.
With meat this good, you just grill it to about rare and eat it, right?
Given the price it’s only natural, but the meat is very good. The trouble is that once you dip it in salt, the balance in your mouth falls apart. High-end wagyu is seasoned with salt and pepper before grilling, steak-style, and I thought hanwoo at this level would be better eaten that way too.
The house signature: saeusal.
Apparently it’s called saeusal (“shrimp meat”) because the split part of the cut looks like a shrimp. Well… that melt-in-your-mouth texture is top-class for Korea, but maybe because it was Chuseok, it didn’t seem like the very best cut. And this one, too, lost its balance when dipped in salt.
At this place, the bulgogi is probably the best value for money.
To finish, we order Pyeongyang naengmyeon, among the best in Seoul.
They say there’s a half size too, but since I was having it anyway I figured I’d do it properly and ordered a regular. The broth is superb.
Mangosteen for dessert
Good stuff~
Ice cream for dessert
Tea came with dessert as well, but I didn’t take a picture of it.
After such a filling meal, I didn’t want to just go home, so I went to Palazzo del Freddo, the gelato shop in Star Super. I’d heard their black rice ice cream, “Riso Nero,” was really good, so I tried it, and it really was delicious ^_^ It seemed to have a hint of red bean flavor, smooth but not heavy. The fact that it’s organic black rice somehow felt healthy, which may have made it taste even better.
It was a lavish, fun meal after a long time. There are so many good people in Korea that I made up my mind to come back more often from now on. ^_^