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Cheongeoram, a Gopchang Place in Mangwon-dong

Cheongeoram has been doing business in Mangwon-dong for ages (apparently it did pretty well for itself, too), and lately it has become a talking point among bloggers and foodies. As the Hongdae commercial district has spread, Mangwon-dong has come to count as part of greater Hongdae, so you can stop at a gopchang place for round one and then take your pick of countless bars for round two — that has to be why. Kadoya is literally right around the corner, in fact.

The spread

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The side dishes are clean and well made. The better the restaurant, the better even the little side dishes taste.

Marinated garlic chives

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Delicious eaten together with the gopchang.

Sauces

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I mostly went with the salt.

Gopchang

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They were packed full of gop. Very good for the price, though it lacks the rough edge that is so particular to gopchang. Well-being gopchang, you might call it.

Cut up

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Two portions is about right. We had the jeongol coming up, after all.

Gopchang jeongol

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The vegetable broth is clean-tasting. The gopchang jeongol I have in my head is the style where you taste the rich fat, and this was nothing like that — bright and light — but it was tasty all the same.

Eat like this, then go to 2chef for round two and your Hongdae restaurant pilgrimage is complete. Or just drop into Factory for a glass of whisky. As Hongdae keeps growing, the pleasures on offer keep multiplying. It is a bit far from home, but I will have to make the trip regularly.

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