Santouka, an Asahikawa-style ramen from Hokkaido, is hands down top-level in taste even among the chain-style ramen shops that have been popping up everywhere lately. Personally I think it beats Ippudo’s Hakata ramen. There are several branches around Tokyo, but the Shinjuku South Exit branch is the easiest to get to, and since it stays open until 11:30 p.m. it’s really handy. (It is a little way from the South Exit, though..) One night when I had business in Shinjuku, I stopped by on my way home.
The sign
Santoka was a modern Japanese haiku poet. It was a pen name, of course. He’s famous for his collection of haiku written about what he felt while wandering around the various regions of Japan. When the owner of this ramen shop was first deciding on a name, he asked his older brother for advice, and was told [You like women and drink, and you’ve got a wandering streak, so how about Santoka?], so that’s what he named it. It started in 1988 as a tiny nine-seat shop in Asahikawa, Hokkaido, and today it’s become a major ramen chain.
The menu
The dish I recommend most is, of course, the most expensive one ^_^ But they’re all pretty similar, so you’ll be happy whatever you order. (That kind of place is really easy to recommend to people.) I get the shio ramen with a side of negimeshi, a green-onion rice bowl. I saw the person next to me eating it and it looked good.
Here it is. Shio ramen
It’s a tonkotsu base with seafood and vegetables added. But the broth is in a different league from the usual tonkotsu ramen style. Santouka’s broth is thick and smooth like a cream stew, yet has a faintly sweet aftertaste that lingers for a long time. The shop says it aimed for a flavor you’ll never tire of no matter how much you eat, which sounds a bit over the top, but it’s definitely addictive. Even I, who’ve eaten my fair share of ramen, find myself craving this place’s ramen now and then. Plus, it’s a delicate, dainty flavor rather than a rough one, so even women who aren’t keen on ramen can enjoy it without hesitation.
Besides the broth, the toppings are generous too. The umeboshi doesn’t look all that necessary ^_^ The chashu here practically melts in your mouth. Maybe because it’s a chain, it wasn’t served in that perfect state that’s both tender and satisfyingly chewy, but I was still more than happy with it.
The noodles
Classic thin tonkotsu ramen noodles. They seemed to have been boiled about five seconds too long. Sure, they might have gone a bit soft while I was taking photos, but even allowing for that, they were slightly overcooked. Boiling noodles is more about experience than recipes. That’s why chain ramen shops, even when they taste fine, can’t deliver that truly superb flavor. That was a bit of a shame, but even so, at this level it counts as one of the good ones.
Close-up of the broth
The best broth I’ve had in a while.
The side dish, negimeshi – a green-onion rice bowl.
It’s a bigger portion than it looks.
You mix it up like this and eat it.
It feels a bit like Korean bibimbap. It’s a little weak to call it a signature dish, but it’s satisfying as a side.
Close-up of the chashu
Delicious as expected. Gotta savor it slowly.
A shot on the way out
I take one more photo before heading home. It may not be the very best place around, but it’s a ramen shop where anyone can come and have a satisfying meal, so I’m giving it my recommendation. Even living in Japan, places this good aren’t that common. Now where do I look next..