I lived in Japan for a long time, but I never really had the chance to properly explore the Setagaya area on the west side of Tokyo. Setagaya itself is an enormous area, the transport is not great, and since it is mostly residential there are not that many places worth going to. Still, I figured I had to see it at least once, so on a hot day in July I did a full loop around Setagaya.
Starting off in Denenchofu
I had heard the name plenty of times, and going there in person, it really is a wealthy neighborhood. The area where only rich people live and the area where ordinary people live are split cleanly around the station, and the rich side felt like walking into Beverly Hills. The tree in front of the fairly ordinary mansion in the photo was as tall as a utility pole, which took me by surprise.
Esprit de Bigot
This is the bakery that recently opened a branch in Marronnier Gate in Ginza, and the quality is no joke. It sits roughly halfway between Jiyugaoka and Denenchofu.
A Setagaya back street
Quiet and peaceful. Sprawling residential streets are what define Setagaya, though I am honestly not sure whether I could live in a neighborhood like this.
The second stop was Futako-Tamagawa.
Suntory’s Beer Farm
A brand-new shopping mall and high-rise apartment towers have opened, and the atmosphere has completely changed. A Tsutaya went in as well, and a big park was built, so it has become a much nicer place to live.
The apartment towers
There used to be nothing much around the Tama River, but now it has all been developed.
The park
Everything is brand new.
After a loop around Futako-Tamagawa, I hopped on a bus over to Seijo Gakuen.
Seijo Gakuen is another of Setagaya’s wealthy neighborhoods, and it turns out wealthy neighborhoods come in all sorts of flavors.
On the way to the next stop..
So where could the next stop be..








Join the Discussion