In a neighbourhood called Sangok-dong, not far from Bupyeong in Incheon, there is a Chinese restaurant called Deokhwawon. I had heard it keeps the old-school Chinese-immigrant style intact, so I got curious and went to check it out.

The area is all apartment blocks and a supermarket has moved in, but this place alone is stuck in the 80s.

It makes me think it ought to be designated a cultural heritage site.

Deokhwawon

Even within Sangok-dong it sits in a back alley, so without a map app it would have been really hard to find.

Inside

It is an open kitchen, in its own way. Somehow that inspires confidence. If you look closely there is a small noodle machine.

The prices

Not bad, right?

Tangsuyuk

It was my first time seeing a clear sauce and napa cabbage on top, but it works better than expected. The portion was so big the two of us struggled to finish it. Next time I visit I will have to try the gogi twigim (fried pork without the sauce).

Gan-jjajang

The jjajangmyeon comes out old-style too. I liked the mild flavour. What really stood out is that they pull the noodles fresh on the noodle machine when you order, and maybe that is why the noodles tasted so wonderful. It made me realise that just getting the basics right can taste this good.

Fried rice

The fried rice was lightly seasoned, an easy-going flavour. Something I could eat often without getting tired of it. That said, light seasoning does mean less impact. If you travel a long way for it, you might be disappointed.

Another shot of the interior

I hope they stay in business for a long, long time.

Shiawase Butter chips, spotted on the way back

I was stunned to find Calbee’s Shiawase Butter potato chips, which I could not even get in Japan, in a neighbourhood like this. Tried them and they were pretty good. Since I saw them here they have turned up all over town, though.

Jongno Wang Mandu

I noticed it on the way home, and it is incredibly cheap. They are on the small side, but 3,000 won for ten in this day and age is just absurd. It really felt like I had slipped back in time.

I bought a jjinppang (steamed red bean bun).

I was glad it was chunky tsubu-an rather than smooth koshi-an. Would make a nice combo stop together with Deokhwawon.

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