I had plans for a late breakfast-slash-lunch in Shinjuku. For a get-together, the department store restaurant floors or a hotel restaurant would have been fine too, but the more casual Suminoe seemed like the better choice, so that is where we went.

The table

It is not exactly upscale, but I really like the bright, fresh atmosphere. The courses are under 3,000 yen, so the value for money is very satisfying as well. That day we walked in right at opening and got a good table, but if you are even a little late, the line gets long.

Bread

This place’s bread is famous even by Shinjuku standards. They run a separate bakery just for it.

Pasta with spring cabbage, crab and fruit tomatoes

A proper spring dish. It was so good I was genuinely impressed. Being able to feel the season in the food is one of the strengths of Japanese restaurants; in Korea, only Bistro Polpo in Bangbae-dong seems to be attempting anything like it.

Smoked maguro tataki

Getting delicious fish even at a yoshoku restaurant is, again, what makes Japanese restaurants special. It had been a while since my last visit, but as always, this place delivers.

Panko-crusted Daisen jidori chicken braised in tomato

Daisen jidori chicken is delicious, of course, but the cooking was easy to understand and brought out the ingredients well. I prefer a place like this to restaurants that are all stiff and full of themselves.

Poêlé of spring fish

Again, good ingredients cooked with a delicate touch. In a way it looks almost too much like home cooking, but this plain style actually tastes better.

Amanatsu sorbet with black tea jelly

The dessert was cute and sweet too. The flavor of the jelly was memorable.

Coffee

Coffee in Japan is high quality wherever you go.

Orange juice

I finished the meal with a glass of juice.

I had worried it might be too simple, but the food and the atmosphere were both as good as it gets. There is a reason the place is always packed with women. It is a great spot for a casual, no-fuss meal, so if I end up in Shinjuku on a weekend, I would like to drop by again.

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